This online washing machine repair manual chapter covers only. Not all Maytag washing machine models were. If the washer is not agitating, remove the agitator. Appliance repair troubleshooting. GE Old Style Washer: Remove agitator cap by pulling it. Maytag Atlantis and Performa: Remove the cap and softener dispenser. Maytag top load washers offer deep clean options, steam-enhanced cycles, optimal dispensers and stainless steel wash baskets. Plus, with a 10-year limited parts warranty. on a Maytag top load washer, you get trusted durability and reliability for a powerful clean.

1. Maytag Atlantis Washer Manual Remove Agitator Speed Queen Washing Machine
2. Maytag Atlantis Washing Machine Manual
3. Maytag Washer Atlantis Parts Manual

Appliantology: Washers You put a load of dirty clothes in your washer, start it up and walk away. But something goes wrongvery wrong! It happened again: you ran a load of wash and came back to find detergent suds all over the floor. What’s going on here? Does your washer fillup with water even when it’s off? Or, you can’t get both hot and cold water even though the wall valve is on? Read why, Grasshopper.

Read this before you tear your washer apartplease! Learn how to womp-up on those annoying slow fill problems. Common causes for the infamous lint residue problem. If you have a Whirlpool or Kenmore direct drive washer and the agitator just flops around without doing anything, here’s whatcha need to do. This’ll ‘splain it to ya for GE, Whirlpool, Maytag, Frigidaire, White-Westinghouse, and Amana washers. This question comes up so frequently that I made a page for it.

You’ll need to remove the shroud to do most repairs on this washer. This is the most common repair procedure in this washer. If you hear the motor running but the washer won’t agitate or spin, then you need to read this. Washing Machine Diagnostic & Repair Guide Problem Possible Causes EEK! My washer is leaking!.

Your fill hoses might need tightening at either end. I’ve seen where poor draining in the standpipe causes the sudsy water to back up and overflow, making it look like a washer problem when, in fact, it was a plumbing problem. Older Maytag Dependable Care washers can have problems with the leaking. A pump might be leaking. You gotta open it up and see. On, the pump is down in front and you’ll need to to check it out. On, the pump is down in back and you’ll need to pull off that back panel to check it out.

The is down in front and you’ll need to pull the front panel off to check it out. The tub might be leaking. How can you tell? Right, you gotta open ‘er up and look at it.

Crystal balls don’t work too good. The new-style GE’s (which suck out loud) are bad for the infamous spin-during-agitate problem. This makes a mess because it sloshes water out of the tub all over the frikkin’ floor. The only cure is to replace the brake package but, man, you might as well go ahead and replace the whole transmission. Prevention is the best thing here: avoid GE like the plague and buy only Maytag or Whirlpool laundry equipment.

The fill valve has crud caught in it making it stick open. And install sediment filtration on household water supply. More details on this. Very restricted water flow through the valve. This problem is unique to the older GE/Hotpoint washers. Low water flow will cause the water from the valve’s discharge hose to run back up the hose by capillary action and down to the floor. This is a tricky one to catch, Hoss.

Takes real kidneys to spot this one. The washer doesn’t spin or, if it does, it’s real sluggish. No spin at all: the lid switch is fried. You test it with your meter. In the Whirlpool/Kenmore washers, a common problem is that the lid plunger stops making contact with the lid switch. Use a pen to manually press the lid switch actuator (with the lid up, duh). If the washer spinswell, you know the rest.

Older (belt-drive) Whirlpool/Kenmores: the is burned out or has cut wires. Ohm out that solenoid (20-30 ohms) and test with a test cord. Make sure the wires are intact by giving them a little tug.

If this is OK, you may need to adjust/replace the basket drive. Newer (direct-drive) Whirlpool/Kenmores: worn out. The drive belt has had it. Look for excessive glazing on the sides of the belt or cracks in the power side of the belt. If they look even though the belts may look OK otherwise.

Belts on other brands will be more obviously bad. Timer is fried. On older timers, it’s sometimes possible to run an external jumper to replace the bad internal contacts. Usually, however, the entire timer must be replaced. The only way to confirm is to use your meter and wiring diagram. It fills OK, it just won’t agitate.

Drive belt could be worn out–see above. On the Whirlpool/Kenmore dual action agitator, the agitator dog cam assembly or drive spindle could be worn out.

If the agitator just wobbles around when you turn it by hand, you need to. The timer contacts for the agitate cycle could be fried. Time to blow the dust off that meter and read that wiring diagram.

On belt-driven Whirlpool/Kenmores: wig-wag plunger/lifter or transmission mode lever could be worn out. You’ll need to look at the action of the agitate solenoid when the machine is in the agitation part of the cycle. If the plunger/lifter slips off the transmission mode lever, replace either the plunger/lifter or the mode lever, as appropriate. On Maytags only: the lid switch could be fried. (Other brands will still agitate with a bad lid switch.). is fried.

You’ll need to ohm out the contacts on it. How you gonna know what you’re looking for in the contacts if you don’t use the wiring diagram, too?. The air tube connecting to the pressure switch is pinched or you pulled it off by accident when you where tearing the thing apart because you didn’t have a clue about what you were doing. It doesn’t agitate or spin. Again, broken or worn drive belts. Newer (direct-drive) Whirlpool/Kenmores: worn out.

The drive belt has had it. Look for excessive glazing on the sides of the belt or cracks in the power side of the belt. If they look even though the belts may look OK otherwise. Belts on other brands will be more obviously bad.

On Whirlpool/Kenmore direct-drive machines: worn direct drive coupler. Motor is fried. If you can’t and test it, that’s as far as I go with you on this one, Hoss.

No power at washer electrical outletduh! 'Fool thing won’t pump out and I got a tub full of stinky water in the washer. I’m gonna die!. Pump’s fried. If it’s a belt-driven pump, you can tell by feeling how stiff it is to turn. For electric pumps, hook up a test cord and run it. Pull drain hose and watch discharge stream.

If stream fluctuates or is pathetic, replace the pump. Again, worn drive belt. In this case, washer won’t spin either (or will have a sluggish spin).

The drain hose is clogged (usually with panties or nylon stockings, ya hey). Pull drain hose and watch discharge stream. A good discharge stream will have the same diameter as the hose itself. If less than this, it’s time to play find the panties.

It sounds like a helicopter’s taking off and the whole house shakes when the washer goes into spin. Try leveling the washer, genius.

Check for play along the diagonal corners of the washer cabinet by applying downward pressure. If there is any play at all, the washer will shake during spin and the legs must be leveled. You have brilliantly located your heavy-ass washer on a floor that would be condemned for structural weakness if a building inspector saw it. Try placing reinforcing pads or pieces of plywood on the floor under the washer. On Maytag top loaders: worn damper pads.

On Whirlpool/Kenmore direct-drive machines: worn snubber pads. The clothes are still sopping wet at the end of the cycle and take forever to dry. Ain’t but one thing: the washer’s not spinning (although it still pumps out). 'Oh no, I know it spins.' How do you know it spins, Sherlock, did you bother to actually see it spinning during the spin cycle?

Don’t you think that’d be a better idea than shooting your mouth off at me? 'That washer put oil spots all over my clothes.

I’m gonna sue!' . Take a chill pill, Prudence, it’s probably not the washer’s fault (unless it’s a GE/Hotpoint). Now, get ready to have your little mind blown: most of time, spots on clothes are from a chemical reaction between the fabric softener and the detergent. Oh sure, don’t believe me, go hire a lawyer, I don’t give a rip.

But you might unbunch your panties just long enough to do this little test: try handwashing a spotted garment in warm soapy water. If the spots come off, they were caused by fabric softener/detergent interaction. I know, I’m a genius. But talk is cheap–thank me with your wallet, not your lips. Transmission oil leaked back into the tub. This is most common with the older GE/Hotpoint washers. Test by applying solvent to a section of a spotted garment.

If the spots come off only with solvent but not with soap and water, then they are oil spots. If you do have a GE/Hotpoint washer, take it to the dump and buy a Maytag or a Whirlpool. 'That horrible washer ate holes in my clothes! I’m gonna die!' .

Maytag Atlantis Washer Manual Remove Agitator Speed Queen Washing Machine

Try using less bleach, Nurse Ratchet. Your clothes are getting caught under the agitator. Feel under bottom of agitator for rough spots that can catch clothing. You’re using too little water for the load size you’re running. Look, if you want to save water, get a front-loading machine.

Otherwise, fill that sucker up and pollute all the water on the planet in the process. Clothes are still soapy at the end of the cycle. Your cold water valve is clogged with sediment. Rinse is done with cold water. No cold water, no rinse. Fried timer contact.

Less likely but possible. Check the valve first, Hoser. Itd be a good idea to check your, too. I don’t get no cold water in my washer.

What, are you from Brooklyn and it’s your birthright to talk like a moron? I think you meant to say, 'I cannot get cold water to flow into my washer.' There, doesn’t that sound better, y’blockhead?. Sediment has gotten into the valve from the household water supply and is blocking the flow.

Replace the valve. Cold water hand valve at wall turned offno, I’m not gonna say it. The washer is completely dead.

No power at the outletDUH!. Timer is fried.

Maytag Atlantis Washing Machine Manual

Washer went off-balance and tripped the off-balance switch. Open washer lid, redistribute the load and re-start the washer.

Wasn’t that a lot quicker than getting on-line, finding this website, and listening to my abuse? Other problems not listed here. See the list of posts below. Start a new topic in the Laundry Forum at the.

7-1 BASIC OPERATION The design uses a reversing motor, which is belted to both the pump and the transmission, using two different belts. At times, both one-speed and two-speed motors were used. When viewed from the top, the motor turns clockwise for the agitation cycle, and counterclockwise for the spin cycle. (Figure M-1) To switch between the two cycles, there is a brake in the hub of the drive pulley, and a clutch in the transmission.

During agitation, the brake keeps the transmission casing from turning, and the drive pulley turns the transmission shaft. During the spin cycle, the brake releases and the whole transmission starts slowly spinning around. Since the basket is attached to the transmission casing, it spins, too. A clutch built into the transmission allows slippage until the basket gets up to speed. At the end of the spin cycle, the motor stops and the brake brings the basket to a stop. In the late '80's, Maytag redesigned the transmission.

The result is the 'orbital' transmission, which has just a few moving parts and is serviceable in the machine. One is supposed to be able to replace the other directly. However, the gearing in the orbital is higher (the agitator agitates faster) so I would not replace one with the other unless absolutely unavoidable; for example, if the parts were unavailable. The motor is mounted on rollers which ride in a metal track. Springs attached to the motor mounting plate keep tension on the belts. The pump reverses with the motor, but there is no recirculation.

When the washer is agitating, the pump is just sitting there spinning; it is not moving any water. 7-2 OPENING THE CABINET AND CONSOLE To access the belts, lean the machine against the wall and look underneath. Follow the safety precautions described in section 1-4(2). To open the front of the cabinet, remove the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. (Figure M-2.) Raise the panel fairly high and the top clips will disengage from the cabinet top.

To raise the cabinet top, remove the two screws on the underside of the front corners. Two types of consoles were used in different machines. To open the console, see figure M-2.

7-3 WHAT TYPICALLY GOES WRONG WITH THESE WASHING MACHINES The lid switch plunger is located in the center rear of the lid. With the lid up, NOTHING on these machines works.

In order to diagnose these machines, you need to keep the lid up far enough to look inside, without tripping the lid switch. You can do this by inserting a putty knife between the lid and the switch, and then propping up the lid with something (I use my electrical pliers to prop up the lid.) The most common ailments in a Maytag washer are leaks, worn belts, and broken timers. SYMPTOM: WATER LEAKS Besides the usual leaky fill solenoid valves, bleach dispensers and such (section 2-4) there are many places that a Maytag washing machine commonly leaks. 1) In the fill line, between the fill solenoid valve and the tub fill nozzle, there is a fill injector which prevents any accidental siphoning of wash water back into your house's fresh water system.

(Figure M-3.) This fill injector can get clogged with calcium or other deposits, causing it to back up and leak. It is easily replaced. It is located beneath the cabinet top, on the left side.

2) If you have a large leak from inside the right rear of the machine, it is probably coming from the drain hose anti-siphon valve. (See figure G-7 in chapter 2.) This is the valve in the washer drain line, right where it penetrates the rear of the cabinet. This valve is easily replaced.

Maytag Washer Atlantis Parts Manual

NOTE: Not all Maytag washing machine models were equipped with this valve. 3) The tub seal will leak from the center of the tub, directly onto the top of the transmission. A tub stem & seal kit is available from your appliance parts dealer. See section 7-12. 4) Sometimes, tub hoses or fittings will leak. There are soft lead washers that seal the tub braces, where the bolts enter the tub. You must remove the basket to replace these lead washers; see section 7-12.

5) The pump can leak; see section 7-4. SYMPTOM: BASKET SPINS, BUT WATER DOESN'T PUMP OUT Check for a broken or worn pump belt. Replace as described in section 7-10. With the machine in 'spin,' look at the pump pulley beneath the machine with a mirror.

If it is spinning, but water is not pumping, check for a clog in the hose between the tub and pump. If there is no jam, replace the pump as described in section 7-4. If the pump is not turning, see section 7-4. SYMPTOM: WASHER FILLS, BUT DOESN'T AGITATE AND/OR SPIN 1) Check the imbalance/lid switch (Section 7-6) for continuity.

Check also the speed selector switch (if any), the water level and water temperature switches for proper operation as described in section 2-6. NOTE: If any of the selector switches on the console are only partially pushed in, it may cause improper function. 2) Check for a broken or badly worn belt. (Section 7-10) 3) Check the motor rollers and tension springs for damage and the motor roller tracks for jamming. (Section 7-10) Any of these might cause the belt to be loose.

4) Check the appropriate timer circuits for continuity. (See section 2-6(c).

5) Remove the belts and see if the motor will start. If you hear the motor buzzing, but it doesn't start in either or both directions, test the capacitor (if any) and starting switch as described in sections 2-6(e) and 7-8. If it does start with the load removed, turn the pump and transmission pulleys by hand, in both directions, to see which is locked up. If the pump is locked, see section 7-4.

If the transmission pulley is locked, see section 7-9. Note that the transmission pulley will normally be very stiff when turning it in the clockwise direction, as you look at the bottom of the washer.

6) If the washer spins but does not agitate, check the agitator splines as described in section 7-11. If they are not the problem, the transmission needs to be replaced; see section 7-9. SYMPTOM: BASKET SPINS (COUNTERCLOCKWISE) WHILE AGITATING Replace the brake package as described in section 7-13. SYMPTOM: NOISY OPERATION OR EXCESSIVE VIBRATION If both motor springs break, the motor shaft will touch the baseplate of the machine, causing an enormous racket.

(See section 7-10.) If the machine squeaks or vibrates too much in spin (and redistributing the clothes doesn't seem to help) check the damper pads as described in section 7-14. If you are getting a short screeching noise during braking (at the very end of the spin cycle,) the brake needs to be lubricated.

See section 7-13. 7-4 PUMP AND PUMP BELT Remove the pump belt and check to see if the pump will turn freely by hand. If not, check for a jam as described in section 2-3. Probe around the inside of the hoses or pump with needlenose pliers. If the pump won't turn easily, and you can't find anything jamming it, replace the pump.

The bearings are bad. If the pump turns freely by hand, but the belt doesn't drive it, see section 7-10. Belt adjustment on a Maytag washer is relatively loose. Pinch the pump belt together with your fingers at the center.

If you have more than a 1/4″ gap, the belt is too tight. (Figure M-4.) Loosen the pump mounts to adjust.

7-7 TIMER The motor in Maytag timers can be removed and replaced separately from the timer body itself. If the timer is not advancing properly, you can try replacing just the motor. To access the timer for testing, remove the console panel as described in section 7-2. To remove the timer, pry the cap off the knob (Figure M-7.) Using a pair of needlenose pliers, remove the spring clip that holds the timer knob in place.

Remove the knob, spring and dial. Beneath the dial are the two timer mounting screws. To remove the timer motor from the timer body, simply remove the two motor mounting screws and the two motor terminals. 7-8 DRIVE MOTOR AND STARTING SWITCH Some machines may have external capacitors.

Test as described in section 2-6(e). Maytag washing machine motors have a piggyback centrifugal starting switch. Compared to other brands, they are very complex motors. They are not only direct-reversing, but some are multi-speed, too.

Unfortunately, just about every model had the starting switch wired differently. To make matters worse, the motor wire colors do not always correspond with the colors marked on the switch.

Whenever removing the motor or switch from the machine, mark which wires came off which of the switch terminals. Draw a picture if you must. Make sure you differentiate in your notes between a motor wire and a wiring harness wire of the same color, and where each goes on the switch.

If the drive motor does not start, try replacing the starting switch as described in section 2-6(e). Make sure you get the right switch for your machine.

If the motor STILL doesn't start, replace it. To remove the motor, first remove power from the machine. Remove the plastic water shield from the motor, and mark and remove the wires. Remove the drive belts. Remove the motor pulley from the motor shaft. Remove the four motor baseplate screws and lift the motor and baseplate out of the machine. Installation is the opposite of removal.

Sometimes a replacement motor is wired differently than the original. Make sure you check the box that the new motor comes in for a wiring diagram. If one of these springs breaks, there may not be enough belt tension to drive the transmission and/or pump.

If both break, there will be NO tension on the belts and in addition, the motor shaft will probably be hitting the washer baseplate, causing a heck of a racket. The roller tracks can get clogged up with dirt, soap deposits or other obstructions. If so, clean out the tracks so the motor rolls freely. Lubricate the rollers and tracks with a little wheel bearing grease.

Examine the condition of each belt as described in section 2-5(a). Always replace BOTH belts if one is bad. Never replace just one belt. To replace, simply push the motor towards the transmission pulley and slip the belts off. Only the pump belt needs to have the proper tension set. Pump belt tension is explained in section 7-4. 7-11 AGITATOR Most Maytag washers have an agitator that lifts directly out.

These models have a rubber stop ring around the agitator shaft at the bottom of the splines. The agitator feels like it 'snaps' onto the shaft. A few models had a set screw that must be loosened before removing the agitator.

If the washer is not agitating, remove the agitator. Look at the splines and the agitator shaft.

If the shaft is agitating, and the plastic splines in the agitator look stripped, replace the agitator. When replacing the agitator, be sure you push it down until you feel it snap over the rubber stop ring at the bottom of the agitator splines. Lift out the basket. If you need to replace a leaking bleach deflector nozzle, (Figure M-10) pull the tab off the outside of the nozzle and snap it out of the tub. To replace, make sure the nozzle spits out bleach in a counterclockwise direction.

(Figure M-10) There are soft lead washers that seal the tub mounting bolts where the damper struts mount to the tub.)(Figure M-10) If they are leaking, replace them by removing the tub mounting bolts one at a time. Make sure you put the soft lead washer between the tub and the strut. The square washer, lock washer and nut go on the outside of the strut. When you tighten, make sure you tighten the nut and hold the bolt. If you turn the bolt to tighten, it will break the seal between the soft lead washer and the bolt, and the machine will continue leaking. TUB BOOT SEAL If the tub boot is leaking, get a stem & seal kit from your appliance parts dealer. To replace the boot seal and center shaft seal, remove the rubber stop ring at the base of the agitator shaft splines (Figure M-11.) With a screwdriver, pry out the retaining washer lock ring, the retaining washer and the center shaft seal from around the center shaft.

With an allen head wrench, loosen the set screw in the tub mounting stem. (Figure M-11.) Using the same spanner wrench you used to remove the tub, remove the tub mounting stem. CAUTION: The tub mounting stem has a LEFTHAND thread; turn the stem CLOCKWISE to remove it. Remove the old boot seal by turning it as you pull up on the bottom of it.

To reassemble, wet the inside of the bottom lip of the seal with a little bit of spit and twist it down onto the tub lip to seat it evenly. DO NOT push on the carbon ring to seat the seal on the tub lip; in fact, try not to touch the carbon ring any more than is absolutely necessary. Tighten the tub mounting stem by hand, (remember; left hand thread, so turn CCW to tighten.) Put the special spanner wrench on it and tap it with a mallet to tighten it.

To install the set screw, tighten it hard to dimple the transmission casing, then back off the set screw and tighten it firmly (but not very hard.) NOTE: There should be 2 to 4 threads showing on the set screw. If NO threads are showing, remove the set screw and tighten the tub mounting stem another 1/8 of a turn, then re-install the set screw. The rest of installation is the opposite of removal. Don't forget the left-hand thread on the spanner nut; tighten by turning it CCW. 7-13 BRAKE PACKAGE Remove power from the machine and remove the front panel.

Pad the floor to prevent scratching the cabinet, and lay the machine on its back. Block up the tub so the tub remains in line with the cabinet. Beneath the washer, in the center, is the brake package.

The brake package changes the machine from the spin to the drain cycle and back when the motor reverses. It also brakes the spinning basket at the end of the spin cycle or when the lid is lifted.

The brake lining is normally lubricated by a few drops of oil. If the lining gets too dry, it can start squeaking at the very end of the spin cycle, when it is braking the basket. Lubricate by squirting in two or three shots of 40-weight oil (from a regular pump-type oiler) as shown in Figure M-12.

The brake package is not too expensive and can be replaced if defective. Replacement requires a special tool which is somewhat expensive. You can remove and replace the brake package, but DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE PACKAGE YOURSELF. IT IS HEAVILY SPRING LOADED.

YOU MAY HURT YOURSELF OPENING IT, AND IT IS IMPRACTICAL FOR YOU TO TRY TO REBUILD IT YOURSELF. BRAKE PACKAGE REMOVAL Remove the center screw from the driveshaft. Remove the drive lug from the splines on the shaft. Remove the drive pulley by turning counterclockwise (as you look at the bottom of the washer.) Remove the bolt and retainer clip shown in figure M-13. Using the special spanner tool, unscrew the brake package from the washer base by tapping with a mallet. When it is unscrewed from the baseplate, pull the package straight off to disengage it from the splines on the bottom of the transmission casing.

BRAKE PACKAGE INSTALLATION When installing the brake package, it is important to have the transmission shaft parallel to the cabinet. This will help you to thread the brake package into the base plate without cross-threading it. With the tub blocked up, grab the bottom of the transmission casing and move it by hand until you can slip the brake package onto the splines. Turn the transmission casing and the brake package together. If you don't, you will be trying to overcome brake pressure to turn the package.

Turn the transmission and brake package until the brake package is hand tight in the baseplate. Then tighten firmly with the special spanner tool and a hammer or mallet. Install the bolt and retaining clip. Place the pulley bearing on the driveshaft with the cupped side towards the pulley. Install the drive pulley on the helical shaft.

While holding the transmission so it doesn't turn, run the drive pulley up as tight as you can by hand onto the helical shaft. You will see a drive lug on the pulley that corresponds to the shaft drive lug.

(Figure M-14) With the flat side of the shaft drive lug towards the pulley, install the shaft drive lug on the shaft splines so that the lug is 180 degrees from the pulley drive lug. Hold the transmission and turn the pulley gently counterclockwise to release tension from the brake spring. Eisenberg einklang v1 10 with keygen rar download.

Keep turning the pulley until the two drive lugs just touch. Then turn the pulley gently clockwise until you just barely begin to feel the brake spring pressure. The shaft lug should be at about 9 o'clock from the pulley lug. If not, adjust the shaft lug on the splines. The idea is to get the pulley to bottom out on the helical drive shaft just as the drive lugs touch.

Sometimes it takes two or three tries to get this adjustment correct. If it is not correct, you will hear the drive motor bogging down and perhaps tripping on the overload during the agitation cycle.

Beneath the damper plate are damper pads, which provide the friction and wear surface. They can wear out, causing metal-to-metal contact and squeaking. TO REPLACE: Reach under the washer and remove the drive belt.

Remove the cabinet front and tilt up the cabinet top. Mark the position of the nuts on the three eyebolts (Figure M-15) and remove the bottom nuts. This will remove spring tension on the tub centering springs. Lean the washer back against the wall at an angle. Place a 4x4 wood block directly underneath the transmission pulley and lower the machine onto the wood block. This will lift the tub, transmission and damper assembly several inches. (Figure M-16).